Geraldine Wharry: Nostalgia Part II



Reebok AW16 campaign

Following our Nostalgia Part I report, we examine the massive comeback of 90s athletics and street style in the fastest growing segment of the clothing industry. Sportswear sales increased by just under 7% in 2016, thus outperforming all other clothing categories for the third year running.
 
Brands from the high street to luxury have been looking back into their archives or doing collaborations to channel the trend most notably with Vetements and Champion's collaboration.

Reebok Classic released their new Vector Collection last year, which was originally born in the 90s, channelling the style in iconic red, white and blue from the initial collection. Reebok cast Anaïs Gallagher, daughter of the quintessential 90s Britpop star, Noel Gallagher to front the campaign.


Fila Trailblazer 2016 campaign / SS17 Tim Coppens designs, photographer by Warren Gourin, styled by Alex Lee for Fucking Young! / Supreme x Louis Vuitton AW17

Fila recently re-released the Trailblazer shoe in October 2016. Originally released in 1990 as a trekking shoe, they developed a cult following in youth culture. Tim Coppens' SS17 designs were styled to evoke an impression of 90s northern street style in a track jacket for Fucking Young!

The theme has been bleeding into the luxury market, as seen in Burberry AW16 and in the Louis Vuitton AW17 collection, featuring the highly anticipated collaboration with cult streetwear brand Supreme.

Pop culture has also adopted the 90s influence. German R&B artist Ace Tee in her breakout video is styled, along with her cohort, in vintage sportswear and thrift shop pieces, channelling music icons Aaliyah and TLC.


Kevin Amato, Los Angeles / Burberry AW16

Online market places specialised in 90s sportswear are also gaining popularity with Wavey Garms, with their online clothing sharing group and London pop-up shop. Functioning mainly through Facebook, Wavey Garms allows people to buy and sell vintage, niche items, usually 90s and 00s pieces compromising of brands such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Kappa, and Champion. According to Rihannon Branco, sister of Wavey Garms founder, Andres Branco, the majority of their following is quite young, but none the less are completely informed about the 90s and 00s culture. 

Nostalgia channels a pride similar to what we see in Sneakerheads. It gives bragging rights to a youth who although too young to have experienced the decade, manage to amplify its style references. Here the recent past is not subverted or poked fun of, it is celebrated and seriously worshipped.

By Guest Writer: Tanja Novak | Editor-in-chief: Geraldine Wharry


 
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Prêt-à-porterPrintemps/Eté 2017